I would think that the power led would be on if there’s power going through the motherboard.

Are you referring to the power led or the disk usage led? I think on my nuc the only other led is the disk usage one, which looks like a soda can. The power led is always on, but doesn’t indicate standby or operating as far as I’ve seen.

It’s likely there’s another boot device that’s taking priority over USB, if USB is even enabled in the bios. I’ve had a few computers that try to pxe boot after internal drives, so it never went to usb until I futzed with the boot order to remove pxe. It’s likely not that you didn’t have an SSD in it, but that USB drives aren’t high enough on the boot list, or not at all. You could try finding what the boot selection key press is on boot, then blindly picking first, second, third option etc. to see if anything gets a hit (frantically press boot key during start up then hit enter after a few seconds, then reset and do it again if nothing happens after about 30 seconds, but hit down, then enter.)

It’s pneumatic, not vacuum. Geez.

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I believe it would have been winlink or amprnet. I think winlink really only does low bandwidth things like email and weather bulletins. Not sure about amprnet

There’s also that pesky low r/w bitrate.

I don’t keep a Swiss army knife set of distros anymore. I put tumbleweed on a USB. It’s rolling so I update it when I plug it in, then do what I need to do.

I used to have a USB with Ubuntu LTS and whatever the newest Ubuntu was. Then another would get something else that I needed/wanted. I always ended up wiping the drive and adding the newest release every single time. I was always out of date by the time I needed one of them for boot repair or something. This was also a time when persistence… Wasn’t very persistent. With tumbleweed I can install whatever I need and it’s there next time. I’m sure you can do the same with any other rolling release, but tumbleweed is in my opinion on par stability-wise with incremental distros. It’s my first grab whenever I need to check a PC. If I need another distro or boot USB, I can make it from this one with a second USB. I suppose the only thing I can’t do is make a bootable USB if the computer I’m on can’t access the Internet

As far as I know, it isn’t illegal to attain or have media for personal use. It is illegal to circumvent DRM and to distribute the media.

So, for example, it isn’t illegal to record a stream. But the hoops you’d have to jump through in order to do so would end up circumventing DRM or with incredibly poor quality.

That’s how these noodles are prepared, they’re run through cold water and served cold. The novelty here is it flows through a trough to you, instead of chilled out of sight and served.

You don’t need to pop it out to DD the SD card, you can do it while it’s running. I like to pipe DD through gzip to get a compressed image as the output so I’m not sitting on 16gb file for 3gb worth of files.

I mean, in the sense of music history it is worth more than any other random one you can find on the street. But maybe somewhere around $500 - $1000 if it was signed by the band.

With my step kid I’ve basically just told him I’m not making anything else for him if he doesn’t like what I made. If he won’t eat it, he can have fresh vegetables and/or last night’s leftovers instead. I give him some options before I start cooking, so he knows and has some say in what dinner is.

The exception is if I make something that’s objectively gross. I’ve had a few frozen package dinners that looked good but were outright nasty and made sandwiches instead.

Controlling your dose

When you titrate something, you’re controlling how much of something you add to get the desired effect. A sip of coffee is a very small amount of caffeine, you’ll slowly add caffeine to your system throughout the cup. A single caffeine pill is like drinking an entire cup in one swig.

I’m driving a Nissan leaf, and it’s costing me about $180 to drive 10,000 miles (4.2ish mi/kwh average over the past year), compared to about that same amount for under 1,000 miles on my Tacoma. I charge 99% at home using a 120v charger and I back calculated using my average mi/kwh and electricity cost. There’s basically no maintenance, so the only extra cost of ownership is basically tires and brakes. My best guess at the battery degradation so far is about 2.5% per year, but the previous owner went extra lengths to keep the battery in good shape, as do I.

So far it looks like every 4-5 years I can replace the battery at the highest estimate and break even compared to my Tacoma. This is the original battery, still at about 80% capacity from 2016 and almost 50,000 miles.

Solar modules are cheap, why not integrate them into the car? I’d love to get an extra 6 miles of range on my leaf per day just for being in the sun.